Climbing Mount Kinabalu
Painful, hard work, totally worth it - The world looks pretty awesome from 4095m!
05.05.2012 - 08.05.2012
So we did it! We climbed Mount Kinabalu! It was one of the most challenging, painful things I have ever done, both physically and mentally but man was it worth it! The views at the peak were immense and the sunrise was just stunning. All in all a fantastic experience and a great achievement for us both and definitely something that will stick in the memory of our travels! I'll describe our two day climbing experience from the beginning...
We were picked up at 7.30am on Saturday morning by a rep from the tour company we had booked through (Eddie, a Chinese/Malaysian), to be driven the one and a half hour journey to the mountain. In the car we met the other guy we would be climbing with - Steve, an American guy in his forties who turned out to be a great guy and a really motivational climbing buddy! Throughout the journey to the mountain Eddie kept us entertained with some ridiculous stories and his crazy laugh (a bit like Mr Chow from The Hangover for those who have seen it!) We arrived about 9.45, registered, got given our packed lunch and passes, then got on a bus to take us to the starting point of out climb, Timphon Gate (which is actually 2000 metres up already, you don't actually start at the very bottom thank god!)
We were dropped at the gate, met our guide (Rosalia, Malaysian girl, pretty young, didn't speak great English) and began our ascent about 10.45am. We would be walking 6km that day, up to Laban Rata which was the resthouse where we would be spending the night. I know 6km doesn't sound like a lot but when you factor in the steps...and boy were there a lot of steps...
The first 2km seemed pretty easy and we seemed to be covering ground fairly quickly – the trail was a mixture of flat and steps so it wasn't to difficult and we managed to keep up decent conversation. Around 3km it started to get a little tougher, more steps began to appear and the heartbeat started to increase. It was 4km however that the challenge really set in – the air was getting a lot thinner by this point as we got higher in altitude and the steps were coming on thick and fast now! It also started to spit with rain at this point so we had to get our rain macs on and be extra careful not to slip.
The last kilometre to the guesthouse was REALLY hard. This is where mind-over-matter kicked in and I was just telling myself over and over how close we were and how it was nearly over and I could do it, blah blah. The legs were screaming and my heart was racing but we made it to Laban Rata about 3pm, 4 hours after setting off. It was SUCH a relief to have arrived, we went to reception and checked in to our room, a 4 bed dorm room which we would be sharing with two others. All I could think about at this moment was having a hot shower as it was pretty cold this high up...well it turns out a hot shower was not an option. Apparently they do not have hot showers at all up there. Still, I thought, I was all sweaty so could do with just having a quick rinse in the cold shower anyway...BAD idea, the shower was like ice water,I was literally in there a minute, barely enough time to rub myself with soap, it was just unbearable! Got back to the room, put on all of my clothes and still felt freezing. Thankfully the day before me and Joe had both bought cheap hats and gloves, which were definitely necessary! We decided to head to the restaurant and wait for dinner to be served as it was probably warmer in there.
We sat down at an empty table and were joined by an English girl and Canadian guy (Cheryl and Ryan) who were both teachers in Singapore and had just popped over to Borneo for the weekend to climb the mountain (as you do!) They were really nice, we chatted for awhile, then dinner was served at 4.30pm. It was a buffet of rice, noodles, chicken, beef, soup, and a load of little desserts, plus bottomless tea and coffee. We both went to town on the food, after all the energy we had expended that day it was amazing how hungry we were! After dinner, Steve came and joined us (he had been for a nap), we all sat talking and drinking tea (I had about 10 cups to try and warm up!) About 6.30pm we headed off for bed, as we would have to be up at2am for the climb to the summit! I barely slept at all it was so cold, there were sheets and a blanket on the bed and I also had my sleeping bag liner but I was still freezing. It didn't help that the people we were sharing a room with were also sharing a bed, where there were all kinds of giggling/breathing sounds coming from under the covers (thank god for ear plugs!)
The alarm went off just before 2am and good lord it was chilly getting out of bed, and very very dark! We went up to the restaurant for a 'light breakfast' of scrambled eggs etc (not that anyone really feels like eating at 2am but you kind of force something down anyway!) We met our guide and began our ascent up to the peak just after 2.30. Most other climbing group left at the same sort of time so it was a bit slow going up for the first hour as there were so many people. Everyone has head torches on as it is so dark and when you turn around you can see a whole trail of lights below, it looked really cool! Also there was a full moon which looked absolutely awesome and really helped with lighting up the mountain – we felt pretty lucky!
After about an hour and a half of climbing steps, we began to get towards the actual mountain face. There were ropes to help guide you and to use to pull yourself up, which was pretty fun! Once we got past the steepest part, the ropes continued to guide everyone in the right direction but it wasn't necessary to hold on to them as it was walkable here – still steep but there were rocks and flat areas you could zig zag between. It was getting really tough at this point, the air was even thinner then before so I could feel my heart beating in my head and was pretty out of breath! I was pleased not to have a headache or feel sick though as that had been something I had worried about before climbing.
The last km to the peak was, again, the hardest part of the climb! It seemed like the peak was getting closer all the time but then you'd get to the top of one bit and you'd look up and there would be so much higher to go! The top was finally in sight after 3 hours climbing and I was pretty much on my hands and knees at this point - I just left Joe and Steve behind and focused on getting myself to the top. The moment of dragging myself on to the very top of the mountain on clutching the sign was just amazing. I had done it, my first mountain climb and I had made it to the top! It felt pretty special. Joe joined me minutes later and we both grabbed a few pictures then went and sat on a rock a bit further down and watched the sunrise, which was spectacular. The views from 4000m above the ground are pretty unbelievable! The weather was clear so we could see everything, and the sky was such an array of wonderful colours. The only thing I didn't like about being up there were the two massive rats we saw, one of which ran right past my foot! Eddie had warned us about mountain rats but I hadn't really believed him, let alone expected to see two!
After about half an hour watching the sunrise and enjoying the views we decided we were ready to trek back down, mainly because it was beyond freezing up there and I couldn't feel my hands (my gloves had got wet on the ropes so I couldn't wear them anymore, it was sooo painful!) The walk down was actually really pleasant for the first hour or so, as we were just walking down the face of the mountain. Myself and Steve were talking about families, hopes and dreams (he brought out my American side a little
), all sorts, it was really nice. Then we reached the ropes and had to abseil backwards down them which was, again, pretty fun! Then came the steps. This is when my legs started to ache. Apparently going down was going to be more painful then going up. We kept chatting away though and at about 8am, 2 hours after beginning our descent, we arrived at the restaurant for yet MORE feeding! No-one is really hungry at this point, it was another buffet of the same sort of thing as the previous (ie, more noodles for me), but you tell yourself you need the energy so you end up forcing a load down (well we did!) It was then time to check out of our room, grab our bags and make our final descent down the mountain. We were both feeling pretty tired, it kind of felt like the whole thing was over once we got back to the restaurant but oh no, another 6km to go before we would be done!
We left the resthouse about 9.30 and started walking down the way we had ascended the previous day. At first it wasn't so bad, Joe went on ahead a little bit and me and Steve just carried on talking, it was all ok...until about an hour in when my legs really started to bother me. Walking down the steps suddenly became really hard work and I was having to grip on to the bannisters to help with every step. We just kept aiming for the kilometre marker signs which were really motivating – every time we saw one we knew we were that much closer to the end!
The last 3km was the toughest part of the entire climb for me. I really had to dig deep mentally to keep myself going. Joe seemed to be fine, although even he slowed down a bit towards the end with achy knees. Towards the end my legs just kept giving way and I nearly slipped a couple of times! I kept focused though, and when we saw the 0.5km sign, that was it, 500m metres to go, one last set of steps to conquer. I made Joe hold my hand as we walked up the steps and passed through the gate at the same time. Finished! We had done it! It was 1.15, almost four hours to get down. The two of us and Steve all had a group hug, delighted it was over with, I honestly don't think I could of managed another kilometre, I felt broken! We had one more meal to get through (another buffet, none of us really ate anything, although Steve paid about 5 quid for a can of beer!) We were then picked up about 2ish to be taken back to our hotels to collapse! The drive back was pretty sketchy, it had started raining heavily and thundering pretty much as soon as we had got down from the mountain (talk about timing) and it was literally pouring, so much so you could barely see the road – not that this seemed to bother the driver, who continued to drive ridiculously fast (I actually told him to slow down) it was horrible, didn't feel safe at all! Luckily the rain stopped after awhile and we arrived back at our hostel about 4. We said goodbye to Steve (poor man was flying back to KL that night to be at work at 8am the next morning! Mentalist!), then had a lovely hot shower and collapsed in our room.
We had been lying in bed for about an hour when we both began to feel poorly. Both of us felt sick and I felt really shivery. Soon after, we were both violently sick, me twice! We went to sleep shortly after, hoping it was something we ate and we would feel better the next day...well we didn't. The next day (Monday) we barely left our room. My whole body just ached, head to toe, I could barely move, walking was a nightmare! We both still felt fragile aswell, neither of us had an appetite and we were pretty dehydrated so we focused on just drinking loads of water and resting, We did venture out so sort out our laundry and pop to 7-11 but that was pretty much it! We watched a film that evening then went to bed, again hoping to feel better the next morning!
Today I woke up feeling much better, no sickly feeling and a little less achy. We decided to pop out and have a wander round the shops, stretch our legs. However being out and about made me realise that, actually, maybe I wasn't feeling so great after all. I still felt nauseous and just totally knackered! So Joe went to the cinema to watch The Avengers and I went back to our room to chill. Didn't really do anything for the rest of the afternoon, Joe came back, we just hung out, I started packing as we leave tomorrow to fly to Singapore – we are staying with Joe's old uni housemate Sheepy (Iain) who lives and works in Singapore. We only have one night there as we fly to Bali the next day, however we are going back to Singapore after Bali for 5 days so we should get to chill with him and see a bit of the city then which will be good – looking forward to staying with someone, not in a guesthouse/hostel, will be a nice change!
So now off to Bali for two weeks of sun, beaches and more diving hopefully! I thought I was all beached out after Thailand and the Philippines but two weeks in Borneo with no beaches has made me realise I miss them! Also the tan has started fading rapidly so best get to work on that before we hit Australia and the weather goes all cold on us!
Lots of love to everyone
x x x x x
Posted by khurp2211 08.05.2012 05:46 Archived in Malaysia Comments (0)

